Alentejo, My Favorite Portuguese Wine Region
December 8, 2007
Prior to visiting Portugal I had tasted wines from Douro, Dão (entry on Frei João Reserva) , and the northern Portuguese Minho region where they produce Vinho Verde. Last week I had the chance to visit Lisbon and taste some fantastic wines from Alentejo, which promptly became my favorite Portuguese region. This happens all the time. If you have an open mind and are willing to taste a wide variety of wines, you will discover amazing jewels that for one reason or another never made it to the mainstream outside of their locales.
While I would say wines from the Dão require an acquired taste, and to some extent even Douros, Alentejo wines, both reds and whites, are very approachable. I will start with a white, Herdade do Rocim‘s beautiful Olho De Mocho Reserva 2005, I tasted at the Nectar Wine Bar in Lisbon. My first impression of this wine was that it tastes like Arneis, from the Italian region of Piemonte. It is fruity, has quite a bit of pears, almonds, and an upfront hint of petrol, though very different from Rieslings. The varietal, Antão Vaz, is typical for whites in Alentejo. The body is medium to full and the acidity level holds up quite nicely to the fruit. You can easily drink this standalone and it is also very flexible for pairing with food.
One of the impressive reds I tried from Alentejo was the José de Sousa Mayor 2000 by José Maria de Fonseca (JMF). It is plush, very velvety (almost Napa Cab style soft tannins), very well structured and explodes with dark fruit, tobacco and dark chocolate. It is a heavy, best paired with beef or perhaps game dishes. If there is something I took home from this wine is that it is the closest to modern International taste that I have found in Portugal. It is extremely approachable for even the non-adventurous mind. The one strange thing about it is that the wine is made in a traditional Alentejo style, in that they ferment the grapes in clay pots/tanks called lagares (if you’ve seen people stomping on grapes, this is similar), yet it has such a modern taste. It is made from 55% Trincadeira, 33% Aragonez (called Tempranillo in Spain) and 12% Grand Noir (Tinta Fina) from old vines planted in the 1950s, spends about 10 months in American oak and is bottled unfiltered. If you can get your hands on this wine, you have to try it.
Name: Olho De Mocho Reserva 2005 from Herdade do Rocim
Rating: 8 out of 10
Body: Medium to Full
Price: 4.50 euros per glass, 12 euros retail
Got it at: Nectar Wine Bar in Lisbon
Name: José de Sousa Mayor 2000 by José Maria de Fonseca
Rating: 8.5 out of 10
Body: Full
Price: 6.50 euros per glass, 18 euros retail
Got it at: Alfaia Wine Bar, Bairro Alto district, Lisbon, Portugal
December 14, 2007 at 2:20 pm
[…] has all kinds of wines. Think fizzy Vinho Verde, the sweet Madeira, the reds and whites from Dão, Alentejano and Duoro, and of course Port. And it does not stop there, wine comes in light body, full body, old […]
January 6, 2009 at 7:56 pm
Hello! I just wanted to let you know that the Portuguese Wine Region that you are talking about is “Alentejo” and not “Alentejano”! “Alentejano” is a person who lives in “Alentejo”! Teresa
January 6, 2009 at 9:12 pm
Thank you Teresa, all corrected. Beautiful wines.